The special features of the national Vietnamese dress for men have been preserved through the ages. Vietnamese man is proud of wearing this dress because it is part of Vietnamese nation, their history and their culture in general. Moreover, it is part of Vietnamese social customs which includes respect for superiors, dignitaries and relatives. In the past, the people who wore different traditional dresses also showed their status in Vietnamese society.
A
revived interest in the national Vietnamese dress for men was
demonstrated at an Lions International Club meeting held in Tokyo in
1969. The assembled Lions, along with thousands of Japanese observers on
the streets and perhaps millions more at their television sets, were
treated to a look at the Vietnamese national dress worn by the
Vietnamese Lion delegates.
This was
the first time Vietnamese men have worn their national dress at an
international gathering since the fall of the late President Diem in
November 1963. Before that time it was not unusual for Vietnamese
diplomats to appear at official functions in their national attire. In
Tokyo, however, the "fashion models" were private business men,
delegates to the Lions meeting.
Anyone
who has seen the exquisite costumes worn by Vietnamese women will
recognize similarities in the traditional dress of the male. Both
costumes are tailored from the same fabric, worn with the conventional
snug collar and buttoned down on the left side to the waist, with no
crease in front or back. The male dress extends only to the knees. The
female dress flows with graceful lines from a tight waist down to the
heels.
The
national Vietnamese dress has preserved its essential features through
the ages. Vietnamese take great pride in wearing this dress for it is
part of their nation, their history and their culture. It is part of
Vietnamese social customs which includes respect for superiors,
dignitaries and relatives. Elders in the family continue to receive this
recognition as did once emperors, mandarins and court teachers, all of
whom had traditional dress variations according to their status in
Vietnamese society.
There are many
variations on the basic theme. At the top of the list is the elaborate
dress of the emperor and the mandarins. Their rank was shown in the
display of color in the brocade and embroideries. Gold brocade with
embroidered dragons was for the emperor only. Gold is the national color
and the dragon heads the fabulous mythical animal world. Purple is the
color reserved for high-ranking court mandarins, while blue is for those
of lower rank.
King Dong Khanh in imperial costume
Costumes
worn for religious ceremonies also have their special colors. Dresses
for ceremonial occasions usually have very wide and ample sleeves.
Wedding dresses are similar to the popular fashions, and the color is
usually purple or blue brocade. Dresses for mourning have frayed fringes
or a line up the back and may be either black or white in color.
Vietnamese
dress styles underwent changes since the beginning of French influence
in the country. Many Vietnamese employed by the French had a tendency to
look down upon those who continued to wear the traditional dress.
European styles were popular mainly among civil servants and university
students.
The majority of people, especially those in the rural areas, remained faithful to their national dress and it even became a symbol of silent opposition to French colonialism. During the colonial war against the French from I945 to I954, many people concealed their social status. The revolutionaries wore black, those who were pro-French wore western clothes while others wore the simple pajama-type shirt and trousers. Following independence the traditional dress came back into its own and was once again the required attire for all ranking officials at government ceremonies or functions of the diplomatic corps.
The majority of people, especially those in the rural areas, remained faithful to their national dress and it even became a symbol of silent opposition to French colonialism. During the colonial war against the French from I945 to I954, many people concealed their social status. The revolutionaries wore black, those who were pro-French wore western clothes while others wore the simple pajama-type shirt and trousers. Following independence the traditional dress came back into its own and was once again the required attire for all ranking officials at government ceremonies or functions of the diplomatic corps.
Artist in traditional dress
When
President Diem was overthrown in 1963, the national dress was so
closely identified with his administration that it sank with him into
oblivion. This neglect, however, was not officially inspired but rather a
reflection of political turmoil, frequent government changes and
resulting chaos. Today, there is serious thought to restore the
Vietnamese national dress for men to its traditional and rightful place,
for it is a symbol of pride in the cultural heritage of an ancient and
proud Asian land.
Young boy in traditional dress
